Iceland: DIY in a Camper Car

I’m used to traveling in developing countries, where lodging is anywhere from $7 for a thatch roof, sand floor hut on Tofu beach in Mozambique, to a $50/night in a luxurious Moroccan riad (mini-mansion) in Marrakech. I’m also a bit more bougie than I was in my 20’s, and the idea of sleeping in a hostel beside 15 snoring, sweaty strangers is not my idea of fun anymore.

Same for transportation: I avoid car-sick inducing bus rides when possible, and prefer the freedom of driving on my own time table, as my whimsy takes me, or my bladder orders me. It feels good to be at the point in my life where I can afford that additional independence, and I’m cognizant that it may not last. Still, hotels in Iceland aren’t cheap, so a camper car served dual purposes, covering transportation and accommodation, à la a mattress in the back of the camper. Best of all, renting a camper car took me deeper into the island than the beautiful, but conventional tourist route, the Golden Circle.

Still…Sleeping in a camper car in Iceland for 9 days turned out to be rougher than I expected. Here’s 10 tips and tricks to create your own Icelandic adventure.

1. Compare

Price, pick-up/drop-off location, and comfort.

Check out Happy Campers, Kuku Camper, and Go Campers. They range in price from 89 Euro/day and above.

When I compared prices in early November, here’s what I found for 9 nights:

  1. Happy Campers: E1,169 ($1310.50)
  2. Kuku Campers: E941 ($1,054)
  3. Go Camper: $806

I went with Go Campers because they were the cheapest, some amenities were included (like a sleeping bag, but not a chair), and their pick-up location is in Reykjavik, rather than the airport (which worked for me because I spent two days in the city first.)iceland-211

Other differences: Kuku Campers have distinct paint jobs, and prices are comparable to Go Campers, but you have to rent bedding and a sleeping bag. Happy Campers are the most expensive, but they come with the most amenities, like a sink and a heating system. My Go Camper didn’t have an independent heating system, so heat was only available while the engine was running, meaning I froze my ass off at night. Imagine that, I was icy in Iceland. So decide if this is a luxury or necessity for you; obviously it’s a trade off in price.

Gas cost me about $300 for the whole trip.

2. Get a GPS

iceland-434 At 50 Euros for a rental, it seemed highly priced, but this is not the thing to scrimp on. Yes, the Ring Road is literally a circle around the county, but side trips and night driving necessitates a GPS, especially if you’re traveling solo. And double check the spelling: Reykjavik and Reykjahlid are in two separate regions of Iceland, and it would suck to drive an hour before you realize you’re headed the wrong way (not that I would know…).

3. To 4X4 or Nah?

I did not rent a 4X4, and didn’t need to in early November. The only time I regretted this was when I realized I couldn’t make the trip on the gravel road, F88, through rivers and over volcanic rock to the Askja volcano. Apparently you can take a group tour from the north, if your heart is set on it. The season and road type (gravel “F” roads vs. paved roads like the Ring Road/Route 1) dictate whether you’ll need a 4X4 or nah. For the most part, my studded tires did the trick.


And for God’s sake, learn to drive stick shift/manual! I thank my college boyfriend for teaching me this indispensable skill I’ve put to use in at least 8 countries. Sometimes automatics are available, but they’re always more expensive, and never as fun to drive.

4. Tolls

Tolls, not trolls.

There are 10 magnificent feats of infrastructure in Iceland: tunnels built through volcanic rock and under the Atlantic Ocean. The Hvalfjörður tunnel is 4 miles long, and descends 500 feet under the Atlantic, cutting driving time around the fjord from 1 hour to 7 minutes. The toll is $8, and you can pay with a credit card! (Smart and convenient technology that we do not put to use in the US.)

5. Road Conditions and Weather

Check the weather and road conditions everyday! The most predictable thing about your Icelandic road trip is that the weather will be unpredictable, and it WILL affect your travel plans. Weather conditions, including temperature, winds, and precipitation here. Road conditions here.

The Emergency number is 112.

As a solo-traveler, I regularly check in with friends and family to let them know my whereabouts and how I’m feeling emotionally and physically. Beyond just the emergency phone number, Iceland has an 112 app that made me feel calmer about going off on a hike in a foreign country alone. It allows you to check in, sending your coordinates to their server in case a search and rescue team needs to come a-lookin. Before I would embark on a hike, or even sometimes at night, I would send my coordinates to 112, and I felt better knowing I had left some breadcrumbs a la Hansel and Gretel. I found Iceland to be the safest country I’ve traveled to in terms of human interaction, but also risky in terms of exposure to the weather. The 112 app also has an emergency button that will send your location and call 112 immediately. 112-splash2

6. Food

Go grocery shopping before you leave Reykjavik. Bonus is good and cheap, and there’s a bubblegum pink pig on the logo.

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Buy sausage, flat bread (flatkokur), bananas, apples, cherry tomatoes, yogurt (Skyr is AMAZING), cheese, Wheetabix, and mustard. Enjoy.

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Don’t worry, the food will keep in the storage bins at the back of your cold ass camper, and Go Campers provides plates, cutlery, and a convenient cutting board.

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One night I got fancy and treated myself to a hot meal and a cold beer in Fludir. It was the best meal I had the whole trip. (Read more on Fludir here). Also, there is plenty of ice cream and hot dogs at every gas station.Iceland 594

7. Find a Campsite

When you’ve been washing your face/pits/poomp with wet wipes, campsites are like the Ritz. Get to one. There are sinks to brush your teeth, showers with hot water, and flushing toilets! Woooohoooo! For the most 044part I didn’t plan which campsite I’d stay in each night. I just used my map and followed the teepee map marker, or a road sign when I saw one. There were nights I wasn’t successful in my quest  and ended up sleeping on the side of the road. It’s a last ditch effort, and makes for some awkward toilet situations. (Do you want that story?! I can give you that story!)

8. Sleeping

I developed a bedtime routine: brush my teeth, wipe my face, lots of moisturizer, pee. Close the curtains. Put on flannel pajamas, sweatpants, hoodie, hat, scarf, stuff sleeping bag #1 into sleeping bag #2, get in both. Shove winter coat into sleeping bag as extra blanket. Hang headlamp from curtain. Read a book with gloves on so hands don’t freeze. Shiver. Hear troll noises outside. Don’t go outside to investigate like the naive person in a horror movie. Turn off headlamp. Wiggle like a worm in sleeping bag to look out the curtain for the troll. No troll. Go to sleep.

If you’re two medium size people, the camper would be tight, especially with your luggage, though you can move some of it to the front seat for the night. And if you’re tall–over 6 feet–I hope you sleep in fetal position.

Check out my video tour of the sleeping space, and one major flaw of my camper car here.

9. Packing

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Light load for luxuriating in nature
MiIceland 502nimalism and organization, a travel motto to live by. I had a basic layered uniform every day: warm shirt, hoodie, winter running tights or sweatpants, my winter coat, thick Lift23 ski socks and my waterproof boots. I repeated outfits because I didn’t get super dirty or sweaty everyday (one point for the cold!). Packing light allowed me to pay attention to the natural beauty all around me, rather than agonizing over the day’s outfit, or misplacing something.

Remember to pack a car charger for your phone and your selfie stick.

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10. Podcasts and Playlists

I tend to create playlists that reflect the mood of the place I’m traveling to, so for Iceland I had Sexwitch, Erykah Badu, Bombino, and yes, some Bjork.

My podcast lineup was as follows:

  • This American Life
  • Car Talk
  • Another Round
  • Talk Poverty
  • Beautiful Stories from Anonymous People
  • Fresh Air
  • Stuff Your Mom Never Told You
  • WTF with Marc Maron]

Have you taken an unforgettable roadtrip, solo or tandem? What routine did you develop, or abandon for the love of freedom?

Happy road tripping you Icelandic Viking!

Iceland: The Blue Lagoon

Have you been to Disney World, a manufactured magical land where Sleeping Beauty’s castle echoes it’s German inspiration and Epcot imitates worldliness?

The Blue Lagoon is like that. Given all the incredible natural formations across Iceland, from fjords to lava fields to lagoons and waterfalls, it’s easy to believe the Blue Lagoon is one of them. Alas, a look behind the curtain reveals the Svartsengi power plant pumping hot geothermal water to the Blue Lagoon, and thousands of homes in the region.

So, is it worth enduring the chaotic crowds, long lines, and excessive commercialism just to soak in a power plant’s runoff?

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YES! The Blue Lagoon’s milky teal 102 degree mineral rich water, proven to cure psoriasis and leave your skin as soft as a newborn’s bum is something to experience at least once.

Here’s what you need to know:

Hot Waters, Cold Cash

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Silica mask

 

There are four entry packages to choose from. Each package offers a different level of amenities, the minimum being just the entry ticket, the most luxurious including a reserved table at the restaurant. I opted for the “Comfort package” for 50 Euros. It included entry into the lagoon, a towel, robe, sample size silica mud mask, and a drink at the lagoonside bar (that I didn’t get because I was short on time).

 

  • Comfort package: 50 Euros
  • In-water massage: 50 Euros.
  • The bus to get there was $25 and I bought the ticket from Go Camper’s office.
  • Luggage storage at the Blue Lagoon: $5
  • Total: $140

Getting There

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View from the bus of mossy lava fields

Many people recommend a visit to the Blue Lagoon before or after a flight because it’s only 23km from the airport. I booked my visit for 9am the morning of my 4pm flight home. I found this time constraint added to the chaotic feel of my experience. I dropped off the camper car at 7am, and waited an hour outside for the bus, my toes eventually numbing to the freezing cold. Not pleasant. The bus only comes once an hour, so if you’re waiting from inside your hotel, you’ll be much better off. Make sure to check what time your bus leaves to head back to the airport from the lagoon, so you don’t miss your flight! Driving to the Blue Lagoon is an also option, and will help you avoid the line to check your luggage (more below) if you leave it in your car.

Lines vs. queues

Buy your entry ticket online! It will save you time. Same if you’d like a massage (more below). There are two separate lines/queues to enter: a longer, slower one for those who need to buy entry tickets, and a shorter, quicker one for those who bought their tickets online. Which one do you want to be in?

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As soon as you get off the bus, there’s a line/queue to check your luggage. If you took the advice to visit the Blue Lagoon directly before or after a flight, join your fellow bus riding globetrotters in an annoyingly long line/queue. In fact, I was late to my massage due to this line/queue, and almost missed the bus on the way out as I waited to pick up my luggage. I hope this is something they improve on, because it was way too stressful for a place that touts itself as “an oasis of relaxation.”

How to Hotpot

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Upon checking in, I was given a robe, towel, and a key bracelet and directed to the locker rooms. Please do your fellow lagooners a favor, and shower with the complimentary soap before you enter the lagoon. It’s smart to condition your hair (don’t rinse!), tie it up, or use a swimming cap, because the same minerals that are great for your skin will leave you looking like a Medusa. There’s an overpriced swim up bar, pots of silica mud for use as a face mask, and towel racks stationed around the lagoon to hang your towel (though I don’t know how you’ll know which is yours–they’re all white!).

Pampering

I treated myself to an in-water massage, floating on a mat in the lagoon, my head held above water by an air pillow. It was relaxing, but a bit disorienting as the masseuse moved me through the water. She was kind enough to consistently pull warm water onto the “blanket” that covered me. It was a unique experience, but underwhelming. If you’re determined to experience this, you’ll need to make a reservation about a month in advance to negotiate your time slot.

To bring the Blue Lagoon home with you, there’s a store on site with expensive Blue Lagoon skin and hair care products, good for gifts or souvenirs if you’re willing to dish out the dough.

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Overall Experience

I’m happy I went, because the Blue Lagoon truly is visually stunning. The steam rising from milky aqua waters surrounded by moss covered lava fields really is otherworldly. But, once was enough, and I don’t need to go back. It certainly wasn’t relaxing; too many lines, which cut down on the time I could have spent soaking. I recommend visiting other lagoons so you get a variety of experiences, like the Myvatn Nature Baths and Fludir’s Secret Lagoon, both of which satisfied my desire for relaxation more than the Blue Lagoon. Happy hotpotting!

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Iceland: Flúðir and the Secret Lagoon

Flúðir

I had been yearning to head inland from the coast, to land so rugged that it was inaccessible for hundreds of years to all but outlaws and bandits who fled the law, nature’s brutality their best protection. These days, it offers a way inland without necessitating a 4WD, and with a population of less than 400, it maintains its quaint romanticism. Besides, the promise of a hot spring, a secret hot spring, was enough to beckon me to Flúðir.


Will stop for fish skin

On the way to Flúðir I stopped to refill the gas tank at a cross-roads called Hvolsvöllur. Across the street was a colorful barn with free wifi called Una, selling all kinds of local Icelandic products. img_2825-2 I had been wanting a fish skin purse, but they were too damn expensive, so I opted for the skin itself, still paying too much (43,000 krona/$38). One thing Iceland is not: economical. Anyway, it’s a nice stop, with locally sourced and handmade items.


Gamla Laugin (Shhhh, the Secret Lagoon)

Before travelling to Iceland, “hotpot” was my favorite type of Chinese restaurant. In Iceland, hotpots became a sanctuary of warmth and restoration, conjuring childlike wonder as I floated in unbelievably earthy depths.

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The Gamla Laugin is Iceland’s oldest swimming pool, and costs 2,500 krona ($23) to enter. The man at the front desk had a very Icelandic pastime, which he offered casually, as if to say he knitted scarves in his free time: he was part of a volunteer search and rescue team, saving about 10 tourists a year (!) from their hubris while climbing mountains and glaciers. (On that note, always check the weather forecast, and wear layers!)

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There are locker facilities to store your clothes, and you get your own key. Be sure to follow Icelandic etiquette by washing with soap before you enter. The lagoon’s minerals leave your skin soft like a baby’s bottom, but iceland-602your hair like a banshee, so slather it in conditioner and tie it up, or if you’re really concerned, use a swimming cap. And if you’re sleeping in your camper car like me, bask in this opportunity to shower!  I even shaved my armpits! To this day I am really curious if that was a good move. Doesn’t hair keep you warm? Seriously wondering.


Dinner

After my soak at Gramla Laugin I stepped into the Kaffihus Grund, a cozy restaurant attached to a guest house. I arrived only a few minutes before they closed, but they welcomed me anyway. I ordered the lamb chops; ironic after I chased two sheep behind the cliffs of Skogafoss waterfall to get a good picture.

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It was only the second hot meal I had in six days, the first one being the burger and salty fries at the gas station in Egilsstaðir three days prior. The lamb didn’t stand a chance. I ate every last crumb. Every last bit of salad (avocado in Iceland?! One point for globalization!). All the hot veggies. Each chop of lamb. The Viking Christmas beer. The. whole. thing.

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As I ate, I felt something that had been alluding me…warmth. My Spartan accommodations accentuated the essential nature of warmth–a steamy shower, hot food, a warm place to sleep–to feeling whole and healthy. Warmth is comfort. I was grateful for this meal and for the home I had to return to after this adventure was over.

Like futuristic fireflies, geothermal greenhouses dotted the dark hills of Flúðir, growing fresh veggies year round. I had Icelandic ingenuity, balancing respect for the environment and harnessing the Earth’s energy to thank for my plate full of veggies.

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Fresh veggies from geothermal greenhouse to table.

That night I fell asleep alongside a gravel road with warm bones and a full belly. A massage therapist once asked me what type of work I was in after giving me a face massage and noticing tension around my jaw. I’ll succinctly describe it as diplomacy, requiring I bite my tongue and swallow my naturally cynical responses on a regular basis. As I fell asleep I realized I had spoken so little over the past few days alone, holding nothing back in my thoughts and behavior. There was no one I had to cajole or convince, no one to explain myself to. It was liberating. My jaw felt loose, not tense or tight as during an average work week. The Secret Lagoon had worked its magic.

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Up next on The Noble Bee: The Blue Lagoon

Iceland: The Eastern Fjords

The Eastern Fjords

I was anxious to move on to the Eastern fjords, so I drove the two hour trip from Mývatn to Egilsstaðir after the 5:15pm sunset. I may have missed some stunning features of Icelandic geology as I passed the hills, valleys and peaks in the darkness, but my restlessness was rewarded: glimmers of green danced and disappeared, lighting up the craggy volcanic rock in front of me. I peered over the steering wheel, doubting my perception until the evidence became so bright that I squealed aloud. Aurora Borealis, the northern lights, like shape-shifting spirits, pulling and pushing against invisible forces, dancing and waving, disappearing, reappearing, eerie green, sumptuous pinks and purples, arching across the entire sky. I’m Somewhere Over the Rainbow, I’m Dorothy, on a journey to explore a mystical world that communicates to me through electrons.

Folk tales explaining the Aurora range from sinister predictions to communing ancestors to playful heavenly animals. Apparently it’s “just” electrons, but as far as I see it, the scientific explanation is no less mystical–both versions make us wonder at the magnificence of what is.

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I arrived at Egilsstaðir giddy from the light show, pulled into the N1 gas station and ate a salty, but deliciously warm burger and fries at Soluskalinn, the fast(ish) food joint inside and used their free wifi to contact home.

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Thank the Norse Gods for explanatory signs, because “Snyrting?!”

The campsite was just down the street with only one other camper van in the lot. I quickly fell asleep in the cold, peaceful, dark camper. The next morning I showered in the campsite’s facilities, even washed and dried my hair, though I mashed it right back into my hat.

As I was finishing up, I chatted with a young Danish woman Iceland 219eating breakfast. She was travelling alone and aiming to drive around the entire island in 4 days. It’s possible to drive the entire Ring Road in just under 20 hours, though not a goal I feel any desire to complete. I wonder if she succeeded.


Seyðisfjörður

Intrigued by descriptions lauding residents’ creativity, I veered off the Ring Road onto Route 93 to Seyðisfjörður, a fishing town nestled at the base of one of the Eastern fjords, accessible by only one road, or a ferry. Talk about isolation. The switchback road rose up a mountain and gave me a gorgeous view across valleys and more mountains before it opened onto a flat, straight road surrounded by oily looking swampland and narrow fjords. Eventually, I saw Seyðisfjörður below me, and a harrowing descent on acute switchback roads.

Ogling the dramatic vistaiceland-4382, I almost missed the waterfall in my review mirror. Not so spectacular, but gloriously unexpected. It wasn’t mentioned in any guide books I read, and I cherish surprises, especially from Mother Earth. This journey, the unexpected beauty and transitions around every corner, were just as fulfilling as the destination.

Most every shop was closed in Seyðisfjörður because it was a Sunday. Tea cups lined windowsills and families in golashes and yellow raincoats pushed prams through the brisk streets. It really was that quaint.


A Camper Van and No Plan: The Scenic Route

From Seyðisfjörður I drove back to Egilsstaðir and took Route 92 toward Reyðarfjörður, then Route 96, through the 5km-long mountain tunnel to Fáskrúðsfjörður. This detour from the Ring Road allowed me to drive the elongated tongue of each fjord, providing eye candy galore. No stop lights. Not a single passing car for an hour. Only a shepherd with his flock, the site of a hairy turf house, devilishly sharp mountains and a unicorn siting persuaded me to stop.
At Breiðdalsvík, a 2km long tunnel joins Route 96 back to the Ring Road. Around the bend of the next fjord were some of my favorite views. A small turf house, fit for an elf, sat at the tip of the swampy inlet at Berufjörður. Made entirely from nature itself, this type of construction has been around for at least a thousand years. (An in-depth article with great visuals here.)
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turf house
To top off my Eastern Fjord roadtrip, PIRATE STORIES! Further south along the Ring Road, the village of Djúpivogur. It was raided in 1627 by North African pirates, who plundered the farms and took villagers as slaves. I’m curious how Icelanders think and feel about this today.
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Brought to Iceland by the Vikings in the 1700s, Icelandic horses have 5 gaits (walk, trot, canter, plus tolt and flying pace), 2 more than the average Mr. Ed!
As I passed Djúpivogur, I thought I saw a glacier rising from the Atlantic. Turns out it’s a fairly isolated island named Papey whose first settlers were Irish monks, and is now a haven for puffin. You can hop on a tour boat to set foot on the rich green and black volcanic islet, and to get a closer look at the silly creatures. As for me, I kept driving.
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Up next: Jökulsárlón, a jewel-toned glacier lagoon

 

 

Iceland: Hiking and Soaking in Mývatn

Mývatn

If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, then you may recognize the volcanic formations and steaming water-filled caves of Mývatn as “beyond the wall.” The Earth here is leaking, steaming, bubbling, emitting and exploding. Short, relatively easy hikes, walks really, allow you to experience it all, including the pervasive smell of sulphur in the air.

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Leirhnjúkur
I started on the western side of Mývatn with a sunset hike, and then on the southeast the next day, moving north and eventually east back onto the Ring Road. Two days allows a leisurely pace of hiking, shooting (pics, not guns) and soaking. I visited in November and thankfully there wasn’t a gnat in sight. Visiting during warmer months won’t allow such luck.


Vindbelgjarfjall

I made it to my first hike an hour or so before dusk: the extinct volcano, Vindbelgjarfjall. A small, barely marked path pointed the way up the gravel mountain, about a 45 minute hike. In every direction, a feast for my eyes. All around me it looked like meteors hit the Earth, exposing craters I imagined would swallow me whole if I dared stepped foot in them. I was wrong, but the scientific answer was even more fanciful–they were explosion craters, the Earth ejecting magma and volcanic rock from the inside out. Breathless from the severe incline, I shared the mountaintop with no one. I breathed. I laughed at the incredulity of the Earth. I signed the guest book.

The sun set at 5:16pm, and I raced it down the mountain, back to my warm mobile home.

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Hverfjall

Hverfjall is a tuff ring volcano, another result of an explosion about 2,500 years ago. From the parking lot it’s about a 10 minute walk up the steep path to the top ridge. I imagine a construction worker pouring gravel, the pebbles strewing down the sides of the pile, creating a peaks and valleys. Standing on the ridge was terrifying. The wind was so strong that it jostled me, at one point pushing me like a sail toward the crater. I sat in protest and avoided certain imagined death.

Isn’t it amazing how volcanoes create so many different types of formations?! Beyoncé would be proud.

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Dimmuborgir Lava Formations

I’ve never heard the words “lava tube” before visiting Iceland, but the hour walk around Dimmuborgir allowed me to get up close and personal.

iceland-381It’s another impressive Icelandic site that leaves you in awe of what the Earth can do, given a few thousand years.

iceland-231There are longer and shorter walks; depends what you’re up for. If you’re a kind person the Yule Lads, Iceland’s 13 mischievous Santas, won’t snatch you into their lair even if you “happen” upon it by following the green signs pointing the way.

 


Grjotogjata

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There are so many places in Iceland where photographs don’t do reality justice. Grjotogjata cave is one of them. Besides the craggily, intimidating entrance, there’s the smell of sulfur, the steamy warmth and finally, the subtle jewel tones bouncing off the water. Entering is tricky, but people used to bathe here before the water became too hot (over 109F/50C) after the latest volcanic eruptions at Krafla. Since then, Jon Snow and Ygritte made it internationally famous. Sword play anyone?


Leirhnjúkur

Leirhnjúkur should mean “this is a smelly version of Mars.” How the Earth varies this much in such a small space, I cannot comprehend. Around every corner of this easy 5km hike is a new spectacle. Geothermal pools, fuming fissures, ashen fields, mossy mounds…it was surreal.

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To start the hike, park at the lot just past the Krafla power plant. To avoid melting your shoes, don’t go off the vaguely indicated path. Lastly, let your mind wonder at the spectacle of Mother Nature.


Myvatn Nature Baths

The Myvatn Nature Baths are the perfect ending to a day of hiking in the cold. I went when it was least crowded, after sunset, and used the opportunity to get clean and warm before bedtime in the camper. I actually stowed my camera and phone to be more in the moment than documenting it, so there is only one photo. Guess you’ll have to get a glimpse yourself! Entry prices range depending on the season, and you can rent a towel, an option I chose because I wasn’t looking forward to drying a wet towel in a cold camper van overnight. I stored my hiking boots outside the changing rooms, my belongings in a locker, showered, and walked out into the freezing cold in my bathing suit.

Iceland 332One thing I wish I would have known: while the minerals in the natural hot springs are great for your skin, they settle in your hair and create knots for days, literally. I recommend slathering your hair in conditioner without rinsing and tying it up.

There’s a sauna, which I nearly fell asleep in, and two pools to choose from-a smaller, hotter one, and a vast steamy one. I oscillated between both, and eventually the 30 second walk between each in the bitter cold wasn’t so brutal. I’ve only ever heard it said, “I’m chilled to the bone,” but the heat of the hot spring settled so deep in me I felt loosey goosey, almost high.

The darkness made the experience mystical and relaxing as it dulled most visual stimuli and forced me to go within. I could see steam rise from the surface, feel soft moss along the edges of the pool and volcanic sand under my feet. It was marvelous.


Hverir

Hverir is bizarre and not to be missed, but a quick view, rather than the full hike, was all I felt I needed after Leirhnjúkur. I visited on my way out of Mývatn, before heading to Egilsstaðir. The parking lot was quite crowded with huge tour buses, and the boardwalk full of tourists, including me, oooo-ed and ahhhh-ed at the bubbling mud and scalding water. Iceland 409

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Next on The Noble Bee: Iceland’s East Coast (East siiiiide!)